I'm a thief and obviously started out in Morroc, but now I find that I can't walk to Payon. I've tried every route and I keep running into Mrc_fld20, a map with guards telling me I can't go further. This map has no portals and I can't seem to find a way around it. Do I have to do a quest or something?
Satan Morroc blowing the place up sort of put a damper on navigation.
I don't think it's now possible to walk directly from Morroc to Payon without circling right around half the world.
I'd personally suggest using the Kafra warp (it's something like 1.2-1.8k), or warping to Prontera for free using the RolePlay Tavern option on the Warper NPC, then walking to Payon from there.
It will save you some zeny to save the basic towns for free, and after you finished the quest you will be able to do another quest which gives you a very powerful hat for your new characters
Have fun and good luck hope this helps you out a bit!
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